Pre-Sloped Shower Pan

From $98.00 Regular Price $150.77

To $2,166.00 Regular Price $3,332.33

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TG-TRAY-PS-B

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Pre-Sloped Shower Pan
Pre-Sloped Shower Pan

In stock

$98.00

Summary


    Trugard Direct Pre-Sloped Shower Pan include a factory installed drain to link straight to the domestic waste line and guarantee the greatest quality installation readily available! Pre-inclined, all set and water resistant to tile!

    Trugard Direct makes water resistant wet-area installations much easier and quicker. With a 3-pound density, the molded extrayded polystyrene (EPS) wet-area tray is extremely strong, providing greater support for the tile covering in wet-area applications. The drain assembly and wet-area tray disk will connect to a PVC or ABS connection, as both connections are consisted of within the wet-area system.

    The function of the slope in a wet-area pan is to motivate all water towards the drain Under the tile and thin set is a inclined mortar base that creates the incline for you to lay your tile. Under that incline is the PVC liner which is on top of your preincline. Seriously, if you have actually got water getting under all that tile and cement and PVC lining you've grown problems than a little preincline.

    The Pro-Incline creates the code need incline under the tray liner in a full mortar bed wet-area installation. Easily trim or extend to fit your wet-area setup. Conserves time - light and easy to cut.
    Each Pro-Incline Package consists of a preformed 60" x 60" composite that is inclined in all instructions to the center, a Favorable Weep Protector and directions.
    Incline allows wetness to drain.
    Gets rid of the cause of fungus, smell & mold
    Conserves time - light and simple to cut
    Trim or extend to fit wet-area setup
    No mortar, no blending, no curing
    Resilient - Made from non-deteriorating EPS

    Trugard Direct Pre-Inclined Wet-area Tray is a base part of this system, designed for quick fitting and installation.

    Trugard Direct Pre-Inclined Wet-area Pan is made of lightweight, high-density extrayded polystyrene that is guaranteed to last a life time in property applications and 25 years in service applications (appropriate materials and installation treatments need to be followed in accordance with the Trugard Direct Warranty *). The resilient and light-weight product is quickly transported and handled during setup, and if the wet-area tray needs to be modified during the dry fitting, a circular saw or utility knife can be used to make re-sizing changes to the appropriate wet-area measurements.

    Developed for interior use just, Trugard Direct Pre-Inclined Wet-area Tray can be used in industrial, industrial, and residential restrooms where a pre-inclined wet-area is required. An array of readily available sizes supplies the adaptability and customization needed for each project. With sizes varying from the 36" x 48" (smallest) to 38" x 66" (largest), you'll be able to find the size finest suited to your wet-area setup.
    Trugard Direct Pre-Sloped Shower Pan comes prepared to be tiled out right of the box, after choosing your compatible drain. Numerous various appropriate substrates consist of concrete, plywood, cement backer board (seek advice from maker for specific installation recommendations), and OSB or Advantech. With the pre-inclined tray style, the requirement for traditional mud bed setups is gotten rid of.

    Every pre-inclined wet-area tray package consists of one Trugard Direct Pre-Inclined Wet-area Tray, one Hydro Ban Preformed Curb, and one 10 oz tube of Trugard Direct Adhesive & Sealant.

    When integrated with the other elements of the Trugard DirectPreformed Wet-area System and Trugard Direct water resistant products, a complete wet-area setup with flood test can be finished in simply one day, dramatically decreasing labor expenses and the time required for the wet-area installation.

    There are a couple of options to develop a wet-area floor for tile utilizing deck mud. The other is a regular wet-area flooring with a liner which will have two layers-- a preincline, the liner, then the leading incline which is then tiled.

    Producing the curb for a wood flooring
    The very first thing you need to do is produce the outside curb of your shower. You require to produce the "box" which will become the within of your wet-area flooring Relying on whether your wet-area will be developed on a wood or concrete floor will determine what material you utilize for your curb.

    If you have a wooden flooring you want to use regular dimensional lumber. Ideally you desire to utilize kiln-dried lumber. NEVER use pressure dealt with lumber-- ever.
    I typically utilize three or more stacked 2 x 4's to create my curb depending upon the size of the wet-area. Merely screw the first one to the flooring (with correct non-corrosive screws), stack the next one on the top and screw it down, and so on till the preferred height is reached. That simple.

    Developing the curb for a concrete flooring.
    For a concrete flooring you want to use bricks. I use gray concrete bricks (no holes) and stack them 2 or 3 high for my curbs. You can use simply routine thinset to adhere them to the floor and to each other.
    You do not desire to use wood for your curb on concrete. Wood will really absorb wetness from your concrete and begin to swell.


    Developing the pre-sloped
    This is among the actions most frequently avoided by a great deal of individuals-- novices along with specialists. It is imperative! You need it-- it's that basic. Without a pre-incline your waterproof liner will lay flat on the floor. This does not offer water anywhere to go. It will sit there, stagnate, mold, ... you get the concept. With a proper pre-incline any water will drain pipes to the weep holes in the drain and go where it requires to-- away
    You require to first make certain your wet-area flooring will remain where you put it. On wood you can utilize regular metal lathe.

    This is simply a sheet of plastic or tar paper stapled to your wood flooring initially with the lathe put over it. It is required to prevent the wooden floor from drawing the moisture out of the pre-incline prematurely triggering it to cure too quick (or not completely) and considerably damaging it.
    Just cut it to the shape of your wet-area flooring and lay it flat on the flooring and staple or nail it down. In the above image I have actually used plastic as my membrane and just have a partial piece of lathe in-- make sure you cover the entire area below your pre-incline.

    For a concrete floor you require to blend up some routine thinset other than you need to mix it "loose". That simply suggests you require to include a bit more water than the guidelines call for to make it thinner. Cover your wet-area flooring area with this prior to you start installing your deck mud. The deck mud itself does not "stick" to anything, you need to supply something that will adhere it to your substrate.

    To make the installation simpler you'll want to mark your height lines on your wall studs. To figure out how high it needs to be off the flooring you need to determine your incline. This involves a little bit of mathematics-- do not trayic! It's simple. Figure out which corner is farthest from the center of your drain. Your incline needs to increase in height 1/4 ″ for every single foot. If your furthest corner is three feet from your drain center your incline needs to rise 3/4 ″. Easy enough so far, right?

    Your finished flooring (after your liner and leading mud bed are set up) requires to be 1 ″ to 1 1/4 ″ thick at the drain. If we make the pre-incline 3/4 ″ thick at the drain it requires to be a total of 1 1/2 inch thick at all your walls. I try to make my pre-sloped the proper thickness at the drain so it will be 1 1/2 ″ at the walls.

    If your wet-area is not a square, and they seldom are, you still require to have the exact same thickness at the walls all the method around the boundary. This implies that you will have a steeper incline on the walls closer to the drain.
    The height of your pre-incline at the drain can differ. It needs to be level with the top of the bottom flange of your drain. Routine drains pipes have two flanges which bolt to each other. The pre-incline requirements to be at least level or a touch higher than the bottom flange. Your liner then goes in between the bottom and top flange to make use of the weep holes in the drain. This permits any water atop the liner to drain pipes. The pre-incline supports the liner so it needs to be level or above every point of the lower flange. Does that make sense?
    This is why planning is so essential. Your drain requires to be high (or low) enough and your curb requires to be higher than your wet-area floor-- naturally. Figure all this out before you build anything.
    Playing with mud
    Now we need to blend a batch of deck mud. Examine out that link, I'll wait ...
    Okay, when your mud is blended up you wish to start packing it in there. Cover the whole bottom of the wet-area floor initially to guarantee the whole base will stick if you are going over concrete and have your thinset slurry down. If you have a large wet-area only spread as much thinset as you can reach over at a time. Start at the walls and load your mud down really well-- beat the hell out of it. Seriously, beat it like the last DMV employee you talked to. You wish to eliminate any spaces and create as thick a bed as possible. Do not worry, it won't hit back.

    Pack it down around the perimeter to simply above your line. Lay that on top of your mud bed against your wall and tap the 2 x 4 down with your hammer till it is even with your line. This guarantees a level, even line all the method around your border.

    Continue to load mud into your shower base all the method from the border down to the drain. You must have a straight line from the border to the drain without any bulges or dips. This will enable water to drain pipes correctly without pooling anywhere. While this particular layer of your wet-area flooring does not have to be specific, you do need to make sure it is relatively flat in concerns to the line from the perimeter to the drain.
    When you get it all loaded in there it needs to have a shape comparable to a really, really shallow bowl. Now leave it alone. The next day it will be all set to install your liner and all that enjoyable things.

    Up until then leave your pre-incline alone. Now that is out of the method, let's talk about my experience last week.

    On my current restroom redesign the area desired an assessment. They needed the drain to be plugged and the tray to be filled with 2 ″ of water. I have to confess that this is the very first time they had ever needed an actual different scheduled evaluation of this. I have no grievances though, if you back up your work, it must pass a water test.

    When the inspector arrived, he took a look at the tray and said that whatever looked good.This indicates that any water that travels through the grout or tile never ever enters the mortar base just like a conventional PVC tray liner and securing drain. 

    He informed me that you just need one mortar bed, so you would set up the evaluation after that is set up. He stated that the only method water would ever strike the liner is if the tile broken or mortar bed failed, and this would be the tile installer's fault.
    This is completely wrong, and I have actually gotten rid of many failing wet-area trays that were installed the same method (one even had worms living in it). I politely mentioned this to him, and he didn't seem to budge, so I just shut my mouth (I had not gotten my approval sticker yet).
    The sub-incline is a requirement in the plumbing code: "All lining products shall be pitched 1/4" per foot to weep holes in the subdrain ..." This pitch is normally created by a inclined bed of dry-pack sand mix put over a layer of metal lath to keep it from fragmenting. Tile setters normally understand more about this than plumbing professionals.
    The mortar base that is then put on top of the liner is also inclined.
    Be sure that, once the liner is installed properly, a flood test is done on the tray liner. This is done by plugging the drain tailpiece listed below the body of the wet-area tray drain, and filling with water to the level of the threshold. It should hold water for 24 hrs. If your plumbing did not know about sub-incline, he may not know about the flood test.
    Trugard Direct Pre-Inclined Wet-area Trays include a factory installed drain to connect directly to the domestic waste line and guarantee the highest quality setup offered! Pre-inclined, all set and waterproof to tile!

    Removes the requirement for a mortar bed
    Decreases weight and installation time
    Produces a bondable surface for using the water resistant
    Can easily be cut to size with an energy knife or extended utilizing dry-pack mortar
    Made from light-weight polystyrene foam which provides a thermal break from the substrate
    6 sizes readily available, including a choice with an off-center drain which is ideal for tub replacements
    Available with pre-cut piece of water resistant

    Trugard Direct inclined wet-area tray is specifically designed to accept the KERDI-DRAIN and is readily available in 38" x 38" (97 x 97 cm), 48" x 48" (122 x 122 cm), 48" x 72" (122 x 183 cm), 32" x 60" (81 x 152 cm), and 72" x 72" (183 x 183 cm) sizes.

    Trugard Direct Pre-Inclined Wet-area Tray is made with 3-pound density EPS that's remarkably strong. It's designed to go beyond code standards with an optimal 2% incline, making it comfortable to base on.

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