Shower Pan Installation
Most wet-area trays are acrylic or fiberglass and Shower Pan Installation can be by following a few standard directions and using the proper tools for the job. Wet-area trays are used as the base of a wet-area collect and stall water while you are taking a wet-area.
When plumbing and tile work is involved, restroom renovations like installing a brand-new tub or shower can be rather labor intensive. But for house owners who desire a much faster, much easier option to custom-made tile, prefabricated showers are great. Although the setup process for pre-fab bases does not vary from tile, it is lighter, quicker, and less costly. Upraised trays are usually made from acrylic or fiberglass. They come in a range of shapes and sizes, although they lack the color range and high-end appearance of tile.
Installing a fiberglass or acrylic tray can generally be finished within 4 to six hours. Unless you have some plumbing experience, it is best to work with a local expert to get the task done rapidly and correctly to reduce prospective problems like mold and water damage.
Prepare the area for setup. Clear all particles and old adhesive from the surface area. Utilize a vacuum or a broom to clear loose debris. Utilize a wide-blade putty knife or a paint scraping tool to peel old caulking and adhesive.
Make any extra surface preparations that are recommended by the wet-area tray manufacturer as required, such as using a fresh coat of a water seal item to the surface below where the tray will be installed. Be sure to follow the guidelines on the container for drying time. Do not install the tray till the water seal is dry.
Dry the surface area completely. Make sure the area is entirely and without standing water and extreme wetness before setting the tray. A moist surface can reproduce mold and mildew. Furthermore, when sealing with caulk, moisture can affect the adherence of the caulk and cause a defective seal.
Dry-fit the tray. The very first thing you'll need to do after preparing the wet-area base area is "dry-fit" your wet-area tray within the area. Dry fitting means that you won't utilize any adhesives or fasteners at this time, due to the fact that you're simply inspecting to make sure whatever fits. Make certain the tray fits comfortably within the area, however not too tight or the tray might buckle. If the fit is too careless, you are likely to have motion issues that can trigger joints to separate and produce severe water seepage. A fit that is too loose will require additional stabilization of the tray.
Check to see if the drain cut-out in the tray lines up and fits properly over the drain pipe. Never ever force it to line up, as this can cause damage to the tray and to the drain pipe. A little movement (about a half-inch approximately in each direction) of the pipeline is great, and will help when lining up the drain components.
Because drain elements differ, follow the illustrations that include your wet-area tray for test fitting. You are all set to complete the permanent setup once you are pleased that everything fits properly.
Installing the Pan.
Fit the tray in place. Change the tray as it was previously if you eliminated it after dry-fitting. Make certain to line up the drain cut-out and drain components effectively. Follow the Trugard Direct guidelines on connecting drain hardware. Some drain installations might need a brief coupling piece to be attached to the bottom of the drain connected to the tray, then slipped into the drain pipe in the floor, sealed with a compression gasket. Others might need a coupling extension pre-inserted into the flooring's drain pipeline, then the tray slips over the coupler and is sealed with caulking and a rubber compression ring. Your specific tray set will have more particular details.
Level the tray. With the tray sitting in place, use a carpenter's level and wood shims to level the tray, changing with shims as essential.
As soon as the tray is level, mark the top of the tray lip where it meets the studs, and mark the place of the shims in case the tray has actually to be moved.
Attach the tray to the studs. Follow Trugard Direct directions, but in general you want to prevent driving nails or screws through the lip of the tray unless straight defined. You can briefly secure the tray to the studs by putting a 1 1/2" or 2" screw through a washer, then insert the screw just above the lip of the tray so the washer overlaps the lip to hold it firmly. Do not over-tighten, as this may split the wet-area tray.
Utilize your carpenter's level again to make certain your fastening didn't toss the tray off somewhat. When the tray is level, steady and firmly installed, it's time to make all parts water-tight.
Seal the tray with silicone bath caulk. All locations where there was any penetration of the tray (i.e. drilled or factory holes) need to be filled with silicone bath caulk to develop a waterproof seal. Also seal around the studs where the tray makes contact, helping to secure the tray.
Use just enough to coat and seal where screws or nails are utilized to connect the tray to the studs. Wipe up any unexpected drips of caulk from the tray prior to they dry.
As you're working, don't let any caulk run over the lip of the tray, as doing so can affect the fit and seal of the side wet-area trays.. If it runs over while being applied, wipe it off before it dries.
You'll likewise require to caulk the joint where the tray meets the floor. Make certain the surface is spick-and-stray and dry or you will not get a correct seal.
Let the caulk dry and examine your seals. If recommended by the manufacturer, reconsider all drain components and seal them with caulk. When you're setting up any compression seals around the drain elements, constantly utilize a blunt tool the push it into place. Never ever utilize a screwdriver or other sharp things, which can completely damage the seal.
These days, if you desire to put in a shower, you can simply go to a home center and select up a fiberglass unit. Before that was possible, pros had to construct a customized wet-area tray by blending and using mortar, shoveling it flat, and laying ceramic wet-area floor tile.
Shower Pan Installation isn't a job for winging it or taking faster ways. Badly installed wet-area trays will leakage, and the only proper way to repair a bad setup is to rip out not only the base but likewise the wet-area walls.
Establish the shape and size of your wet-area. We desired a shower that would comfortably accommodate 2 people and have actually two independently managed wet-area heads. We likewise desired a curved glass block wall on 2 sides and a drying area that was part of the same wet-area.
Keep these components in mind when you're sizing and placing your wet-area:
The tile layout. It's easier to figure out the size of the wet-area if your wall tile is picked ahead of time.
Wet-area doors. If your wet-area will have a door, select it out ahead of time to make certain the wet-area opening will accommodate it. Don't forget to permit for the thickness of the tile and the cement board. When you're determining the size of the wet-area door and the direction it ought to swing, think about other restroom doors and components.
Pipes. It's obviously much simpler to connect a new wet-area that is situated near existing plumbing. Copper water lines, sewer drain lines and vents can be attached to pipes at a surrounding restroom. Our wet-area backed up to a common wall which contained all the pipes we needed. If you're installing your wet-area in a remote place, it can be difficult to get to the sewer drain and still keep the wet-area drain within the needed range from the drain water vent. You may require to remove walls or the ceiling below the wet-area to accomplish hook-ups if the next level down is ended up. In some cases plumbing a brand-new restroom is more work than constructing the wet-area from scratch.
Now that the wet-area is laid out, it's time to rip out the walls and rough in the pipes. Cut the drywall out of the wet-area opening with an utility knife and remove it. After you plan your pipes hook-ups, cut a hole for the clamping-type drain in the subfloor near the center of the wet-area so that the bottom flange of the drain rests on the subfloor.
Type the summary of the wet-area flooring with 2x4s in the straight areas. The slope fill can be challenging to install due to the fact that its 1-in. It simply serves as a sloped base for the vinyl liner and as a base for the upper layers.
Set up the cement board walls by setting them over the liner and on top of the sloped fill. Usage hot-dipped roof nails or the covered cement board screws that are readily available at the exact same location you purchase your cement board. Tape the joints with fiberglass fit together tape and cover them with either thin-set mortar or mastic, whichever the tile store suggests for setting your tile. When setting the cement board, deal with the smooth side out. This makes it a lot easier to spread the tile adhesive and get a flat surface area for tiling and for drawing tile layout lines.
Required Tools for this Wet-area Tray Installment Job
Have the essential tools for Do It Yourself projects like wet-area trays lined up before you start-- you'll conserve time and disappointment.
You'll also require a cement blending tray, a hoe, a wood float, a steel ending up trowel and both rubber and leather gloves.
Required Materials for this How to Set Up a Wet-area Tray Project
Avoid last-minute shopping journeys by having all your products all set ahead of time to build wet-area trays. Here's a list.
1-1/4 in. roof nails
10d galvanized nails.
3-in. drywall screws.
Ceramic flooring mix.
Fiberglass mesh tape for cement board.
Galvanized broadened metal lath.
Wet-area drain assembly.
Tile backer board.
Let's face it. Wet-areas are the bathing choice of almost everybody. If your restroom has become a household bottleneck since you do not have enough wet-area stalls or the one you have is dripping, read on. We'll reveal you how to replace a leaking base (aka wet-area tray or wet-area tray), replace a tub with a wet-area just or set up an extra wet-area to deal with need. Preformed wet-area bases have vastly simplified the setup procedure. They're practically leakproof and are greatly simpler to set up than traditional solid mortar bases.
Still, setting a base can be challenging, particularly when you're redesigning older plumbing. In this post, we'll reveal you how to rip out an old tub and replace it with a one-piece fiberglass wet-area base. We'll walk you through the challenging parts, initially how to relocate the drain perfect, then the needed venting. Next, we'll demonstrate how to set a rock-solid base-- one that won't break or leakage down the roadway. Our detailed directions will take you right as much as the point where the walls are ready to complete. We will not go into those finish details here.
Do not stress if you make mistakes. The materials are affordable and corrections are quickly made by cutting out areas and installing new fittings and pipes.
Finishing this task-- getting the old tub out, reworking the plumbing and installing the new base-- will take a Saturday a minimum of, a weekend at the majority of. We suggest that you lease a 1/2-in if you have to run a drain line through joists or studs. right-angle drill and a 2-in. hole saw (or bit). Otherwise, standard plumbing tools and hand tools are all you'll require. Make sure to make an application for a pipes license and have actually an evaluation done at the rough-in phase (when whatever is still exposed) and after whatever is complete (wall surface areas completed, final hardware set up).
A mortared wet-area pan enables you to custom-fit a wet-area enclosure. The key to an effective installation depends on the usage, difficult but versatile plastics that form the tray of the enclosure and make the floor water resistant. Smaller tiles work best to conform to the slope.
This thick-bed installation counts on a troweled mortar mix, which when properly mixed resembles a sandy clay. Floating a thick bed takes 2 steps: drifting the sloped sub-base and floating a reinforced top floor that follows the slope of the sub-base. You should install it only on a slab or correctly supported wood subfloor because of its significant weight.
You'll require to commit 2 to 3 days to frame the enclosure, drift the floor, and tile and grout the interior. Prior to you begin, fix the subfloor and strengthen. Make sure you're comfortable with standard framing, mixing and drifting mortar, setting tile, and grouting.