Shower Pan Drain
From $71.00 Regular Price $109.23
To $81.00 Regular Price $124.62
Trugard Direct Shower Pan Drain is perfect for tile floors. The diagonal drainage body, in addition to the mounting holes makes for easy subfloor setup. It features strainer.
Looking for a replacement drain for your wet-area? If you're browsing for drainage covers
Let's face it. Showers are the bathing option of almost everyone. So if your bathroom has ended up being a household traffic jam due to the fact that you don't have adequate wet-area stalls or the one you have is dripping, continue reading. We'll reveal you how to replace a leaky base (aka wet-area tray or wet-area tray), replace a tub with a wet-area only or set up an additional wet-area to handle need. Preformed wet-area bases have actually greatly streamlined the installation process. They're practically leakproof and are significantly much easier to install than conventional solid mortar bases.
Still, setting a base can be difficult, specifically when you're remodeling older pipes. In this article, we'll show you how to remove an old tub and change it with a one-piece fiberglass wet-area base. We'll walk you through the challenging parts, initially how to move the drainage ideal, then the necessary venting. Next, we'll show how to set a rock-solid base-- one that won't split or leakage down the roadway. Our detailed guidelines will take you right approximately the point where the walls are ready to end up. We won't go into those surface information here.
Mainly this involves cutting and cementing plastic pipelines and fittings. The materials are low-cost and corrections are easily made by cutting out areas and setting up new fittings and pipelines.
Finishing this job-- getting the old tub out, remodeling the plumbing and setting up the new base-- will take a Saturday at least, a weekend at most. If you have to run a drainage line through joists or studs, we advise that you lease a 1/2-in. Be sure to apply for a plumbing license and have actually an examination done at the rough-in stage (when everything is still exposed) and after whatever is total (wall surfaces ended up, final hardware installed).
There are numerous choices when choosing a wet-area drainage for your preformed wet-area base setup. Your choice depends upon your wet-area tray and your scenario. And the type of pipe you have in your home may assist identify which wet-area drain material you ought to buy. The manufacturer's suggestions for both the wet-area tray and the drainage might also help you figure out which wet-area drainage to buy.
Bear in mind that wet-area drainages are made to fit 2" drainage pipeline. A two-inch pipeline is the suggested pipeline size because wet-areas have a low limit for flooding, and 2" pipe helps the water drainage faster than does a 1 1/2" pipeline. If you are converting from a tub and wet-area combination to a wet-area, you'll likely have to change drainage pipe size.
Now let's take an appearance at some common wet-area drainages pipes and a fast description of how to install them.
Compression type wet-area drainages connect to the home drainage pipelines with compression trayers and nuts. They are much easier to install, usually than glue-on wet-area drainage connections. Compression drainages pipes come in PVC, ABS, or brass pipeline. Any of these can be utilized with steel, fiberglass, or plastic wet-area bases.
When installing a compression wet-area drainage, the drainage fitting is first installed into the wet-area base.
The drainage pipeline need to come near about 3/4" to 1" listed below the lip of the wet-area drainage. You might need to put the wet-area base into place to mark the right height, then remove the tray to cut the pipe.
Put either plumbing professional's putty or silicone caulk onto the top flange of the wet-area drainage fitting, then place the tailpiece of the drainage fitting into the drainage opening. Put the cardboard friction ring and big rubber trayer onto the tailpiece from under the wet-area base.
Tighten the shower drainage up until it is great and tight, then eliminate any excess putty or silicone.
Put the wet-area base into location and push the rubber gasket into the drainage pipe. You might need to use a screwdriver to press this into place, as they are designed to fit securely.
Generally these wet-area drainages pipes featured a tool to assist you tighten up the nut from within of the drainage. Tighten up the nut with this tool.
As soon as the nut is tight, your drainage is prepared for water if you utilized plumbing professional's putty. If you utilize silicone, you will need to let the silicone dry prior to checking the drainage for leaks.
Glue-on wet-area drainages pipes come in ABS and PVC plastic. Make sure to match the wet-area drainage to the type of plastic in the drainage system if you have a plastic drainage pipeline. Like the compression-type wet-area drainages pipes, this type can be utilized with steel, fiberglass, and plastic wet-area bases.
With glue-on fittings, it can be more difficult to get the pipe measurement right, so ensure to measure thoroughly and double-check the dry-fit the pieces prior to gluing.
When cutting the drainage pipeline, do not cut the pipe too short, to start with. Put the bottom part of the drainage onto the drainage pipeline without gluing, then set the wet-area base into location to check the drainage pipeline height. Make changes accordingly.
Once the drainage pipe height is right, you can either set up the drainage onto the wet-area base first or glue the bottom part onto the pipe and after that tighten the top flange once the base is set into place.
Usage plumbing professional's putty or silicone on the leading flange of the wet-area drainage. The paper friction trayer and the rubber trayer go onto the drainage tailpiece from underneath the base.
Note: Use the proper glue when gluing the drainage to the pipeline: ABS glue for the black plastic and PVC glue for the white plastic.
If you are setting up a drain for a tailor-made tile wet-area base, the drainage fittings are positioned during early steps in constructing the ceramic tile tray. Tile wet-area drainages been available in ABS, PVC, and cast iron types. Wet-area drainages pipes for wet-areas have an integrated flange that will bolt the water resistant membrane liner to the pan. This liner is the most affordable layer of water resistance and will make sure anything getting in under mortar will still go down into the drainage and not leakage through the wet-area tray.
Wet-area drainages pipes have 3 pieces: a bottom flange, a middle flange, and the strainer fitting.
After the subfloor of the wet-area is ready and tidy, set up the bottom flange of the wet-area drainage into the drainage pipe, normally by gluing.
Use troweled mortar to create the strong underlayment for the wet-area, sloping it 1/4" per foot from the walls toward the drainage.
The liner is then set up over the flooring and flange of the wet-area tray. Usage silicone caulk to seal the liner to the drainage flange. Cut away the liner around the drainage opening.
Insert the middle flange of the drainage fitting over the liner and drainage opening, utilizing bolts to secure it to the bottom flange below the liner.
Connect the drainage strainer assembly to the drainage, so it stands from the liner about 1 1/2".
Now you are ready for the rest of the ceramic tile installation. Usually this will include a 2nd layer of mortar, then the ceramic tile applied over the mortar.
Hot Mop Wet-area Tray Drainage
For use in wet-areas with tile floors and hot-mopped tar or asphalt waterproofing
Enamel-coated cast iron body with stainless-steel bolts
Stainless-steel crown/ring and strainer
Square strainer ring readily available for simpler tile setting
Prop 65 CAUTION
Choosing a drainage for a tile-in wet-area tray
A wet-area pan drainage includes (3) main parts-- drainage base (body) with flange & pipe center, clamping collar w/ bolts (secures wet-area tray liner over the drainage base to prevent leaks) and the head adapter with strainer.
Drainage pipes base and clamping collar are the same throughout all 821 series and only the head adapter provides flexibility in regards to drainage shape (round/square) and finishes (polished steel, oil rubbed bronze, tile, and so on).
Cast Metal vs. Plastic Rim & Strainer vs. No-Rim
821-T200P is the only basic model in Sioux Chief product line-up with a plastic rim (noticeable part around the strainer) and a stamped 19-gauge st. steel strainer All the other designs we carry have a solid cast metal strainer and rim-- whether in round or square shape.
We do not bring, nor advise tile-in wet-area tray drainages pipes without the rim (a ring around the strainer). In such drainages, tile grout can be found in direct contact with the strainer and will high likely chip away during routine usage, drainage cleansing or strainer replacement.
Round vs. Square shower strainer.
Round or square strainers are normally selected to match the rest of the bathroom design. Square strainers therefore are easier to set up.
Frequently Asked Concerns
Q: Exists a "square" option to 821-T200P drainage?
A: This design can be altered over to square head utilizing 821-2QAS (polished steel surface) or 821-2QARB (oil rubbed bronze finish) adapters. Strainers on these adapters have 2-5/8" on-center screw bolts and interchangeable with other brands to match the preferred surface.
Q: Are strainers exchangeable?
A: On plastic rim model (821-T200P), usage 4-1/4" screw-in replacement strainers with 2-5/8" on-center screws (available in oil rubbed bronze, polished brass and satin nickel surfaces). On all other models, use 4" replacement strainers with 2-5/8" on-center screws.
Q: What is the purpose of the plug?
A: Plug consisted of with the drainages is utilized for DWV pressure testing (where needed), wet-area tray leakage screening, avoiding damage to the wet-area drainage head throughout building and to prevent debris from entering the drainage line. It is included with the drainage at no extra expense.
Common in neighborhoods, plastic wet-area trays are developed for diy setup. They are fast and long lasting to install, they don't last as long as, say, ceramic tile, and eventually cracks or other failures might require removal of the tray. A homeowner may also remove a plastic wet-area tray as part of a remodel of the bathroom. No matter the factors, detaching a wet-area tray is merely a reverse of the setup treatment.
Designed to fit seamlessly into your Bestbath walk-in wet-area or to be set up individually, our wet-area trays are offered in a full range of sizes. Low-step and barrier-free wet-area trays are available with beveled thresholds, have an anti-slip gelcoat surface, and an option of drainage positions. Wet-area trays are pre-leveled at the factory and require no mud setting.
This shower pan drain includes a Double Responsibility test plug which seals the drainage for DWV pressure test and wet-area tray water test. The plug is simple to set up and remove, and removes reaching through the collar to eliminate test caps. No blow-up balls, glue-in wafers, or mechanical plug needed!
Wet-area tray drainage
Plug and drainage with screw-on strainer
Double Duty test plug
Plastic strainer rim
Stainless steel strainer
Trugard Direct Wet-area Drainage Bases are developed for usage with tile or marble wet-areas where a wet-area tray liner is used. The low profile design allows for setup in tight areas. At the very same time, the securing collar can be reversed to include extra height when needed.
- Solvent welds over 2 in. or inside 3 in. PVC Sch 40 DWV pipe
- Reversible securing collar is protected with stainless-steel hex bolts into brass inserts to prevent stripping
- Developed for usage on built-up wet-area bases of tile or marble where a wet-area tray liner is used and weep hole make sure appropriate drainageage
- Made of durable product
- Adjustable height
- For use in wet-area tray liner applications
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. "What is the purpose of a quick test or EZ test drainage?"
A. Quick test (A.K.A. EZ Test) wet-area drainages pipes are threaded to enable a test nipple and cap to be inserted from the top of the drainage for leak screening or the installer can utilize an inflatable test ball.
Q. "What is a collector or wet-area pan?"
A. This is the horizontal surface area located at the bottom of the wet-area. The collector normally consists of a non-slip surface area slightly banked towards the center or wherever the drainage lies. Integrated with 3 to 4 inch walls around the side, the objective of your wet-area drainage plumbing is to get the water to flow to and down the drainage.
Q. "Why are a few of these listed as No Caulk drainages pipes? Don't they need caulking to seal to the wet-area base?"
The are called No Caulk drainages due to the fact that they will fit over drainage piping and are sealed by an internal compression ring. Prior to modern-day pipes innovation came along, drainages would have had to be caulked with lead and oakum to seal the drainage to the pipeline.
Q. "How can I prevent my weep holes from clogging throughout setup?"
A. Prior to the final mortar application location some pea gravel over the weep holes so the mortar doesn't totally cover them.
Q. "What is a PVD surface?"
A PVD finish is created to not wear away, stain, or discolor. It is established by embedding molecules deep into the surface area, producing a bond that is nearly unbreakable.
A wet-area tray drainage includes (3) primary parts-- drainage base (body) with flange & pipe center, securing collar w/ bolts (protects wet-area tray liner over the drainage base to prevent leakages) and the head adapter with strainer.
Drainage base and clamping collar are the same throughout all 821 series and just the head adapter offers flexibility in regards to drainage shape (round/square) and finishes (polished steel, oil rubbed bronze, tile, and so on).
Cast Metal vs. Plastic Rim & Strainer vs. No-Rim
821-T200P is the only basic design in Sioux Chief item line-up with a plastic rim (visible part around the strainer) and a stamped 19-gauge st. steel strainer All the other models we carry have a solid cast metal strainer and rim-- whether in round or square shape.
We do not carry, nor advise tile-in wet-area tray drainages pipes without the rim (a ring around the strainer). In such drainages pipes, tile grout can be found in direct contact with the strainer and will high likely chip away throughout routine use, drainage cleansing or strainer replacement.
Round vs. Square wet-area strainer.
Round or square strainers are typically picked to match the remainder of the restroom style. Round holes can be more challenging to cut in large tile without correct tools. Square strainers for that reason are much easier to install.